As you’ve probably seen from my TNG medical smock analysis and detailed costume examination, I got a lot of mileage out of the screen-used Dr. Pulaski uniform I examined recently, courtesy of Angelo Cifaldi.
In addition to thoroughly documenting the costume’s dimensions and construction, I actually extrapolated a sewing pattern from it, using a technique I learned from a book called 101 Sewing Secrets from the Singer Sewing Reference Library.
Basically, this process entails pinning or hand-basting a layer of muslin to the garment and lightly tracing the seam lines, darts, etc. with a pencil.
I did this for every single piece of the smock.
In addition to the shape of the pieces themselves, I also noted the direction of the grain, as well as all the various seam/hem allowances (etc.).
I transferred my muslin pattern to my dot-and-cross pattern-drafting paper, “true-ing” all the seam lines with the various rulers needed and double-checking everything for accuracy.
Then, I added all the appropriate seam/hem allowances to the appropriate edges and traced the pattern onto the large sheets of paper I usually use for my Tailors Gone Wild (formerly Bad Wolf Costumes) sewing patterns.
Luckily for all of you, I play a lot of Tetris, and I managed to cram every pattern piece onto a single 36” x 48” page!
I’ve since had it scanned at my local copy/print shop, given it a good polish, and digitally labeled it, so it’s all ready to go!
You can download my traced pattern here for free.
The pattern is a large-format PDF, 36″ x 48″ black/white.
Click here for instructions for how to print a digital pattern download. 🙂
A few notes on the pattern draft:
The finished garment measures approximately 38” around the bust and 33 ½” around waist.
The grain lines indicate the crossgrain, not the straight grain! Use the horizontal “weave” of the jumbo spandex as a guide.
The neckline trim and yoke piping pieces were extrapolated based on the length of the original seam lines, rather than tracing the actual pieces.
There were slight discrepancies on the right and left sides of the garment; I made it symmetrical.
I took the liberty of rotating the inner/under-sleeve seam slightly forward so it matched the side seam.
I reduced the sleeve hem allowance to an even 2”. (The original was 2 ⅜”.)
The bottom of the screen-used smock was simply cut to length and left unhemmed; I added an optional 1” hem allowance around the bottom.
This traced pattern is VERY close to the original, but you’ll want to allow a tiny margin (say, about ⅛” in any given direction) for “human error.”
(FYI, this is the exact pattern I used as a base for my graded Tailors Gone Wild TNG medical smock pattern.)
Anyway, I hope you enjoy the free pattern. 🙂
If you appreciate this pattern download and would like to see more like it, please support my costume research on Ko-Fi.
Every bar of gold-pressed latinum goes toward producing more sewing/costuming resources like this, for everyone interested in Star Trek costumes. 🙂
